Wednesday, January 11, 2012

NEW VIDEO: Booking it along the Amazon with PACTOUR


The team with a mission! (Thanks to Thai Neave Photography for the loan of the GoPro fish eye camera).

90 SECOND MOVIE TRAILER


PACTOUR Peru Projects from Galfromdownunder on Vimeo (slightly higher quality than the one on YouTube below. Maybe.)  Latin groove by Kevin MacLeod



Delivering books to remote schools along the Amazon.
I'm just back from my second expedition in Peru with cycling legend and tireless philanthropist Lon Haldeman of PACTOUR.

The 17-day, non-stop itinerary involved several charitable projects:  a shopping trip for a home for abused and homeless girls;  delivering books to remote schools along the Amazon;  visiting two schools that PACTOUR built near the jungle town of Iquitos; inviting street kids to an impromptu meal, and buying supplies for the Puerto Ocopa orphanage that we stumbled upon back in 2004. Lon has led this same trip almost every year for the past decade, so it's become an ongoing concern, attracting donations from many of his cycling clientele.

Nuns look after the 45 kids at the Puerto Ocopa Orphanage where we took food and clothing for 3 months.
My first visit, in 2004, resulted in a feature-length video, 16,000 Feet on a Friday: Biking the World's Highest Paved Road which portrayed, among other things, my gasping, slightly blue mug as I tried to bike over that 16,000 foot bump at a centipede's pace ... here's 1 minute of gasping for you.

16,000 feet ... ohhh, my head feels like lead ... 
This year, we drove it, while some of the crew biked sections. Without the gradual acclimatization afforded by biking at a steady 5-6 mph, we all got a little bit sick, despite ingesting No-Doz, Coke, Mate tea, loads of coffee and unbearable amounts of sleep-depriving Latino rap courtesy of every taxi driver's mp3 player.

1. Shopping for the Chosica Girl's Home. A generous Dutch non-profit runs "The House of Gina," a girls home in the attractive town of Chosica, 35 km outside Lima. It's a safe haven for abused and homeless niñas, and our contribution was to take them all shopping to buy some treats.
What are little girls all over the world made of? Pink diamonte shades! 
Gina was a little girl who sadly drowned. The home was named in honor of her.
Little Aracely (below), who Lon met 6 years ago in the remote, dusty town of Yurinaki, is now one of the local PACTOUR crew. Although she has a loving mother, her family are very poor and she is lucky to have secured a spot at the House of Gina.

Aracely, now one of PACTOUR's local crew members - is a terrific interpreter.
The cyclists in the crew included four Americans and two Peruvian competitive cyclists - sisters Alessandra and Samantha, currently national champions in their age groups. The cyclists leapfrogged the rest of the crew in taxis over the 3-day stretch from Chosica to Tarapoto, the jumping off point for boat trips along the Amazon and its tributaries.

Peruvian women's cycling champ Alessandra Davila


2. Delivering books to remote schools along the Amazon 

Buying books in Lima, for the jungle schools of the Amazon
An unforgettable segment of the trip was the 3-day, 2 night banana boat cruise from Tarapoto to Iquitos along the Amazon and confluences.

View from the Eduardo VIII "banana boat" at 6am, somewhere along the Rio Amazon.
12 bundles of goodies await six lucky schools. 
Being the "first class" passengers at $US60 per person, we slept in cabins and hammocks on the top deck and were served three really quite decent meals a day, prepped by the cook in the deck below.

The regular class passengers on the deck below vied for hammock space and brought Tupperware eat meals from the kitchen.
After bundling the books into 6 piles of 2 packages - books and writing/drawing materials - we were dispatched by motorized dugout canoe at various points along the Amazon, popping up in remote villages and surprising a number of tiny schools with our humble offering.

The teachers and kids were surprised - and delighted - at their windfall from the "extranjeros."
Escuela Esperanza: 71 kids. 
Interestingly, some officials from the local Dept Education happened to be on the boat doing their rounds of inspecting and testing teachers in remote schools. Apparently, students must attain a certain level of skill in certain subjects or the teacher gets shown the door (if there is a door) - according to Vioricka, our local Director of Operations.

3. Visiting the Jack Wolff and Joseph Pulley Schools


These two schools, built entirely from donations collected by PACTOUR, are located at kilometer 9 and 46 outside the northern jungle town of Iquitos. The Jack Wolff School, with almost 600 kids, prepared a grand welcome of placards, dances, poetry readings and food. Then the teachers got down to business to discuss their needs for the coming 2012 school year.
Touching messages everywhere you looked at the Jack Wolff School.

Lon listens to teachers articulating needs and desires - sporting uniforms, a powerpoint projector, laptops ... 
The kids at the remote Joseph Pulley School. Many walk 1 hour from further inside the jungle to class each day,
The Joseph Pulley School is a hot, dusty, 4km hike into the jungle. It was named after the father of an avid PACTOUR cyclist., Brenda Pulley. The site consists of the school building, a hut for the teacher, a hut for the live chickens, a cooking stand and a river nearby. The teacher, Vioricka's mother, spends 5 days a week living in these spartan conditions, and returns the city of Iquitos on weekends.  Many of the children walk 1 hour or more to the school from deeper in the jungle each day to attend class.
A hot 4km hot and sweaty hike in and out of the school. Douse your socks with repellent!
As remote as it was, the Jack Pulley school cooked everyone wonderful meal of duck confit, rice, pickled onions,  plantain and slices of the sweetest pineapple.


4. Street kid parties

Like a "flash mob" event, we hosted two spontaneous meals at a local restaurant for kids who looked like they had nowhere to go home to. We handed out individually numbered invitations and asked them to show up at the restaurant at 6.30pm. A sign that Peru is become more affluent: some kids refused the invitation, and those who accepted looked fairly well looked after "which hasn't been the case in previous years," said Lon.
The little boy selling snacks took time off work to attend the party. 
Not all the kids were particularly poor ... this fairly affluent girl (left) sticks by her less affluent friend.
I wondered if this benevolent gesture might be misinterpreted by onlookers, given that my mother always told us "not to accept pollo from strangers." My concerns were laid to rest by a local guide:
"Peruvians are accustomed to foreigners stopping buy and doing kind things," he said.

5. The Orphanage at Puerto Ocopa


The Orphanage is at the end of a spectacular and often treacherous 300+ mile route from Lima to Satipo over the 16,000 foot Ticlo pass.


It's come a long way since we first visited in 2004, when a single nun looked after 85 kids whose parents had been killed (apparently) by guerillas. At the time, all cooking was done over wood, each child had one set of clothes, which were washed by standing and soaping themselves in the river and rain - and there was no electricity.


Thanks to non-profits from France and Spain the center now has running well water, electricity, three fridge/freezers and even a TV room.

Gabriele Garcia, who lives year round at the Orphanage, runs the Children of Rio Tambor Foundation.
He's made the well operational so that the Orphanage now has running water.
The orphans received clothes, shoes and personal hygiene items as well as 3 month's supply of food.
6. Cycling

Our crew included Peruvian champion cyclists Alessandra and her younger sister Samantha. Read about their rise to fame here.





Christian of the many beautiful and charismatic kids we met in Peru.

Crayolacam 2.0: I used a SONY DSC-HX9V and a Canon S100 point and shoot cameras for this project.

Thanks so much to gun cameraman Johnnie Behiri, who I've met through his spectacular review of the SONY DSC-HX9V on Vimeo. He provided life-saving online help in mastering the impressive little camera which shoots 1080p/60fps - yet it's still just a point & shoot. I really need hi-def video but with one-handed operation (the other on the handlebars of a bicycle) and this really did the trick!

More pictures on my Facebook page here
Read about this tour

A DVD of this tour will be available Jan 2012 | Original DVD: 16,000 Feet on a Friday
Donations for these Peru Projects are administered by a charity and always welcome and appreciated - as you can see, they are put to good and immediate use!
To donate, contact Lon Haldeman, haldeman@pactour.com | Read Lon's Peru blog

Monday, December 26, 2011

Better harassing through science: the Cat Attack toy

The Cat Attack: A little remote controlled mouse with skittish attachment keeps cats on their toes (shot on my iPhone, a bit of drumming by the Greenpoint Marching Band in Hudson, 2010)


Let's face it: it's generally more fun to watch a white elephant gift exchange than a traditional Christmas gift opening. Same ole, same ole, given and received with gracious grimaces - sox, books, TJ Maxx gloves, scarves (OK I was guilty of gifting a few from my recent Peru video shoot), tins of mass produced shortbread butter cookies ... oh wouldn't I kill to see someone gift a black velvet flocked painting to a serious art lover!

But this year, after teaching a Christmas Day yoga class, I was generously invited by a student to a wonderful gathering and saw a particularly fresh stocking stuffer:




It's called a CAT ATTACK: a remote-controlled toy with convincingly twitchy, skittish mousey moves. Three laser-pointer-blasé cats - a tuxedo, a tortoiseshell and a calico - were mesmerized by this gadget. Staring in disbelief, they stalked it from a few whisker-lengths distance, backing off and darting behind boxes when it swung around for a swipe.

Yes, as if twitching and nose-butting the cat wasn't enough, the gadget features a Chaos Wand - a neurotic pom-pom on a spring that's whacked around asynchronously like a fly swatter.

As you can see, the tortoiseshell eventually bit the pom-pom and stalled the action until it let go.


Best of all, it kept the only child in the room utterly transfixed (for a while) as she controlled the remote like an expert crane driver. Uh, except when she drove it over the rug fringe, where the spinning wheels sucked up the cords. It was like trying to unravel a reel of dental floss sucked up in a bicycle chain (not that the two would ever get that close.)

The unpredictable moves make the toy very interesting to watch, and apparently it's a product of applied chaos theory. It utilizes "algorithmns based on six-dimensional coupled nzmap system modeled on the neural network of a real mouse." I include the full and fascinating thesis at the bottom of this post.

OK, the fluffy booties were the second best stocking stuffer

How fun would it be to work for a company that makes this kind of thing!  Applying your PhD in Robotics and bringing the prototype to the boardroom table for progress presentations ... I use to wonder what the boardroom meetings of adult toy industry would be like:  Powerpoint presentations of penile enhancers, battery life charts of buzzing day-glow suppositories ... you get my drift. As we know, everything gets old, hence the relentless onslaught of new tchotchkes. Like this Tengu toy my beau discovered in MOMA, which I filmed lip-synching a classic Rowan Atkinson skit:


 Read on for a holiday applied science fix - it's what happened when NASA met Kitty!

Cat Attack Remote Control Cat Exerciser
As much fun for people as for cats, the Cat Attack is the world's first remote control cat exercises featuring the Chaos Wand, based on chaos technology, to keep your cat wildly entertained for hours on end. You drive the Cat Attack and it drives your cat crazy! The Cat Attack uses the latest research in chaos theory and complex systems to emulate the movements and personality of a cat's favorite prey. This "virtual mouse" technology utilizes algorithmns based on six-dimensional coupled nzmap system modeled on the neural network of a real mouse. What that all means is that the Cat Attack's "virtual mouse" will become your cat's new best friend! This product is based on Capsuled Chaos TM technology by ChAotic Toy Factory, ltd. (from http://www.felinefanatics.com/cat_toys.htm)

Have a happy cat-harrassing 2012!

Saturday, December 24, 2011

On the 12th of Xmas my true love gave to me...


A Galfromdownunder Traffic Cone Bag in a pear tree! (More shots of this on my Traffic Cone Blog)

Avagoodone, as we say Downunder!

Thanks to artist Pamela Talese for taking these shots, and loaning me her silver Nutcase helmet. 


Tuesday, October 4, 2011

At Westville Cafe, NYC, Sep 2011
Ten Years After the Fact Dept:  I was delighted to meet Aussie ESPN Sports commentator and all-round creative guy Thai Neave ( Thai Neave Photography) who brought his old, tattered Random House copy (circa 2003) of my book to brunch - and loaned me his GoPro helmet cam to try out in my upcoming Peru trip.

Apparently Thai was inspired to make his own trip to Cuba as a result of reading my book!

Here's Thai in action:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNlA7L_07Yo

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Where I was, and wasn't - on 9-11. And you?

Where I first landed: Bike Friday in Eugene, Oregon USA

I had just arrived in the USA, and was interning at Bike Friday, Eugene, Oregon.

Every morning at 8am was a sales meeting.

I was transitioning from being a nite owl in Central America to a morning person in the USA, and judging from the empty chairs around the sales manager's cubeless cube, I wasn't the only one.

Nonetheless, I managed to get to the shop by 7.58am, park my bike in the garage at 7.59am and wandered through the small break room where, unusually, the TV was on.

One of the new salesguys, Michael Kelly, was standing in front of it, staring.

"What are you watching?" I asked.

"World Trade Center," he said simply.

I saw the smoking towers on the old fuzzy box (even then, this was a clunky old telly with a bubble screen) but it didn't register. I thought it was a special effects movie and Michael was indulging in a bit of pre-work viewing. I mean, everyone in 'merica turns on the raucous box first thing and turns it off last thing at night, right?

I went into the salesroom and the sales manager was sitting in his chair, looking like he's been there a while. As we assembled, he laid it on the line.

"Now you all know the sales meeting starts at 8am sharp. There is never any reason to be late."

We looked at each other guiltily, and started the day.

+++

An evocative image from photographer Masayo Nishimura's show, Uptown Bound
"You mean you had no emotional attachment to it?"

Sepember 10, 2011. I've just popped by the photo exhibit entitled Uptown Bound by photographer Masayo Nishimura, whose work I own.

In the spring of 2000, Masayo was photographing inside the uptown stations of the New York subway using a medium format camera and a tripod when she was stopped by a policeman. At the time,  Masayo was unaware of regulations prohibiting the use of tripods in stations. The images she captured in that brief 30 minutes are a lasting memoir of a time prior to that fateful day. During an exhibition of these very images in September 2001,  911 happened.

... the fifth day into the exhibition, on Tuesday September 11th in the late morning when I woke up, the twin towers of WTC had already disappeared from the Manhattan skyline. The world I lived in and loved for past fourteen years had suddenly disappeared. The gallery was located just a few blocks away from the WTC. The show had to be temporarily closed due to circumstances shutting off everything in Manhattan south of 14th street. Now those works have become a symbol for me of the innocence of New York City before 911 which I have loved so dearly since I moved here two decades ago. From Uptown Bound

It surprised her that I was not deeply affected by the tragedy at that time. I explained that I had just landed in Eugene, Oregon, had never visited New York in my 39 years on the planet, and the only buildings in NYC known to me were the Empire State and Chrysler tower - from pictures. Nor had I watched much television, let alone American TV, while living in the jungle and traveling in Central America and before, that, the UK on my bicycle for a number of years.

I must have seemed doubly out of touch, because recently I sent her an email asking if, while she was in Japan, she could bring me back a certain soy sauce bottle I'd spotted in there in 2009. The moment she got the email was the very moment the tsunami struck. With the time delay between Japan and the USA, the news had not yet arrived in my inbox.

Masayo's work is once again, exhibiting from Sep 8-16th, 2011 at Gallery 502a.

+++

My first ever visit to NYC was 2002:
riding the Bike Friday Twin Air tandem in the Five Boro Bike Tour with host Mike Schuyler.
Bike Friday was certainly affected by 911. When people stopped flying, they cancelled their orders for a travel bike that goes in an airline suitcase. I was asked to write a piece about it. It's now disappeared from the live website, but you read it here on Wayback Machine.

My very first visit to the Big Apple was not until a year later, 2002. I took the company's signature Twin Air tandem in its single suitcase to ride it. A Bike Friday couple, Mike and Christie Schuyler, very kindly put me up in their tiny Bleecker Street studio, on an aerobed that filled the living room. It is generous customers like this who enabled Bike Friday to stay viable throughout that difficult period.

Mike and I rode the Twin Air tandem in the tour. One evening, he took me for a very long walk and stopped at a fence covered with notes and thoughts seeking lost family and friends in 911.

Here's a photo gallery of that first visit.
Here's the story on Wayback Machine.

+++

The Isle of Mull, Scotland
Four years earlier, I was standing somewhere in Scotland - was it Stornaway on the Outer Hebrides? Was it the Isle of Mull?  - calling up a friend in Australia from a phone box. Against the wall of a small magazine store, still yet to open for the day was a wire cage bearing the current headlines: New Recipes for Busy Mothers.

Something like that.

"Princess Diana died," he said the voice from Downunder.

"What? You're kidding me," I said, hearing one thing in one ear, while my eyes were registered something else. The time difference here, was a mere few hours.

+++

Scott Malcomson graces our bookclub with his presence.
A few weeks ago my book club, through a UN connection, were privileged to have the author of Generation's End, Scott Malcolmson join us. Only after reading this excellent book, did I finally get a cohesive view of the events surrounding and leading up to 911.

I intend to read it again.










Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Children's Education Foundation Vietnam: $150 goes a long way




I've just made a donation to an unsung and extremely worthy cause: The Children's Education Foundation - Vietnam.

This tiny charity, run by the tireless Linda Hutchinson-Burn relies on a just a few donors who know about her tenacious, selfless work that strives to keep young Vietnamese girls from impoverished families in school - and thus out of the hands of traffickers.


I was invited to a low-key fund raising dinner Linda organized in Brooklyn.  At the top of this post is the impromptu video I shot of her presentation. I urge you to watch it and learn of her amazing work.

It started out like this: while holidaying in Vietnam 10 years ago, Linda saw that the mothers of extremely poor families literally worked themselves to death. "She died of tiredness" is a common explanation for death. Illness and premature death mean children must abandon school to look after remaining family members - making them a target for traffickers.

"A child in school is far less likely to be trafficked," says Linda. "An educated female is less likely to be violated or abused, and less likely to be exploited."

She was moved to tackle the problem, but from its root cause - ill health. By raising the health of these people, she reasoned, kids could stay in school, and be safer from trafficker's hands. So this amazing woman left her comfortable life in Australia and spent three years in Vietnam, cooking Vietnamese meals to raise money to finally open a free clinic.

How poor are these people? Many live on $1 a day, and have to build shacks on the most polluted canals where no tax is charged - they simply cannot afford to live on land:


Others live under structures of bamboo and newspaper; a family of four might sleep under a plastic sheet tied to a fence, their bed a platform on boxes, barely clearing a torrent of rainwater in monsoon season.


Thanks to donors - of which there are just a few in the world - school desks, books, pencils and waterproof clothing are hand-carried across rivers, streams and through thick jungle in the most remote parts of the country to give these kids and their families a chance at a better life - an educated life.


"We put girls back in school who have been removed due to poverty," says Linda. "We want them to have choices. A girl with an education earns 18 times that of one without."

As for Linda - now there's an amazing woman. She subsists on little more than the humanity she helps, as her charity is set up so that she receives no salary or payment. She is assisted by a handful of dedicated people including her long-time friend and USA coordinator, Stephen Jackel.


It turns out that just $150 equips a child for 1 year of school, and approximately double that for a year of university. I doubt there could be a more satisfying use for your spare $150.

Please donate to CEF now. Of course are many, many worthy charities, and many that have the PR and resources to attract the kinds of donations that CEF can only dream about. Toiling away year round in a far-flung corner of of the poorest places in the world, Linda is quietly putting 110% of her life into helping these kids in the small way she can.

You just know that your donation of $150 - or whatever you can spare - will be put to immediate and urgent use, $150%.

Write a check now. 


 ‘Children’s Education Foundation – Vietnam’

Post it to the USA Coordinator - Stephen Jackel

277 Broadway, Suite 1010, New York, NY 10007.

Please let Stephen know of the donation so he can you send a receipt:
cef.vn.usa@gmail.com

And of course, check out the CEF Website






Sunday, July 17, 2011

Governor's Island: a little piece of Manhattan where cars fear to tread

Governor's Island - a little, flat Utopia off the bottom end of Manhattan



I'm slowly discovering New York's intriguing chunks of itself scattered close to the "mother ship," Manhattan. 

There's Fire Island (holiday favorite of the gay community off the coast of Long Island), Roosevelt Island (an odd little strip of suburbia in the East River between Manhattan and Queens),  Ryker's Island (the prison island), City Island (Bronx), Ellis Island (houses a museum), Liberty Island (on which stands the lady in the green dress) and just this weekend, I visited Governor's Island

It could not be easier to get to this "ice cream cone shaped island" (check out the map below!) especially on a bike. Cruise down the west side bike path to where the Staten Island Ferry takes off, go a bit to the left, and there's a FREE ferry from South St to this little car-few nirvana. 


From Wikipedia: 



Governors Island, a 172 acre island in the heart of New York Harbor, is only 800 yards from Lower Manhattan, and even closer to Brooklyn. It is a world unto itself, unique and full of promise. For almost two centuries, Governors Island was a military base – home to the US Army and later the Coast Guard, and closed to the public. 

800 yards! You could almost swim it. In 2003, it was largely turned into a park, and since then, several activities have sprung up on this low-key isle, #1 being to lazily bike around its perimeter, criss-cross the blob of ice cream, and just hang out picnicking on the grass. 

The day I went - Saturday - some giant sculptures by Mark di Suvero, on loan from the Storm King Arts Center in upstate New York, littered the landscape. My first thought:  how they got the sculptures there ... by container ship, surely? Or by a massive convoy of 16 wheelers?


Below, the Statue of Liberty waves back towards me as I prepare to devour my picnic lunch on Picnic Point:


The sculptures really stood out against the pancake-flat landscape - big backdrops of sky to set them off:


My friend Cat showed how pleasureable it is to ride in this almost car-free utopia. It's early days, enjoy the peace while you can ... 



Figment is an annual exhibition of very inventive artworks each accompanied by a thought-provoking explanation. First up, a sculpture that lets kids be kids and adults be adults in close proximity - kids play in the kayaks and the adults loll below in hammocks:


Someone built a "children only" model of a semi-submerged jet fighter covered in astroturf. I'm really not keen on playful renditions of warmongering accoutrements, but since you can buy a plastic AK-47 in day-glo colors (I am assuming) then this is just par for the course:


 One artist, Isabelle Garbani, was knitting up a storm using plastic bags made into yarn, and "dressing" nearby trees with her repurposed-bag "sweaters." 



A bunch of drink bottle caps made for some clickety clackity fun when you pulled down on the cord; I think the food concessions should have had buckets to collect these caps near the trashcans:


"This one's not that interesting," said Cat of this table of wooden shapes and a sign inviting us to build. A few minutes into it and we're engrossed, creating our own tabletop mini-Manhattan and brusquely elbowing and kids out of the way who try to topple it. 

Ah, to be a kid again!


There's even a New York Harbor School on the Island, where kids learn to read, write, dive and learn all about ocean ecology. The #1 aspiration of the students? To become a marine biologist ...